Part TWO: Where Trees Take You

Charley Wagner, arborist and retired tree climbing competitor, shares his experience on the island of Nan Modal training locals, and working to preserve a heritage site.

I have returned to Oahu, halfway back to Longville, Minnesota from where I started. My adventure to Pohnpei, in the Federated States of Micronesia, to instruct workers on safe and controlled techniques for tree removal and pruning in and around the ancient ruins of Nan Modal has finished Phase I. It takes years to become a confident and competent tree worker, but we only had two weeks of intense training to teach and fortify the very basics. With future training ahead I look forward to being part of a team bringing modern arboricultural practices to one of the most remote places on Earth.

It’s hard to express the wonder of Nan Modal , which means “in the spaces between.” Basalt stones stand in 500 ft pillars on the northwest side of Pohnpei at Sokehs Rock. Eroded remnants of the core of an ancient volcano expose geological wonders that when solidifying, formed octagonal patterned rods. Captivated by the mystery of how these stones, weighing tens of thousands of pounds, were brought from Sokehs Rock to a shallow reef off Temwen Island 20 plus miles away on the southeast side of Pohnpei, have got the world stumped. Watching and reading many stories about this wonder some say more material was moved to create Nan Modal than that of the pyramids in Egypt. It was a mind-boggle, attempting to wrap my head around how these stones were quarried, floated, raised and stacked over a thousand years ago with no modern tools. Magic or aliens make the most sense.

A collaborated effort of local, private and federal personnel is working to free this endangered world heritage site, often called the eighth wonder of the world, from the jungle and mangrove that are choking it and prying it apart. Members of the team include the following: Miranda Hutten of the USFS, Hubert Yamada of the State of Pohnpei, Kukulynn Gallen and her local team, Carleen Solomon and Jasmine Remoket, Doug Comer, acting archeologist and president of Cultural Site Research and Management Foundation and Kevin Eckert, president of Arbor Global who was spearheading the execution of a vegetative management and training program. These were the minds and hands I worked with and got to know. Truly great people, each playing a crucial role to the success of this project. I apologize in advance for others unmentioned that played an important role that I didn’t get to meet.

Another group that played a big role and have become good friends over the years are the folks at Petzl, Arborwear and Jeff Jepson who all offered generous support. Petzl builds great gear that climbers depend on, supporting our lives with reliable fiber and metal. Arborwear’s high quality, durable and innovative work wear has kept me comfortable for decades. Jeff Jepson, author of a library of tree worker books, took me under his wing in the late 90’s and taught me to fly through the trees. All three have been great, supportive relationships through my entire career. A huge hug for keeping me safe, agile, comfortable and educated through the world of tree work and many thanks for your support on this project.
 
At Nan Modal, a tremendous amount of work has been done building a visitor center and opening platforms and canals, but there is still so much to do. The ancient capital of the Saudeleur dynasty sits on about 100 acres. A network of heavy basalt stone and coral platforms, canals and sea walls make up the majority of this marvel. LIDAR imagery has played a crucial role in uncovering and identifying platforms and terraces consumed by the vegetation. Categorized as an endangered world heritage site, the goal is to create some tourism that will generate funds to continue clearing key aspects and to maintain what has been cleared. A typical day on this job revolves around the tide changes and respecting the spirits.

Kevin and I drive an hour to cover 18 miles of the Pohnpei countryside, dodging the deepest of the potholes, a plethora of stray dogs, and the locals casually walking down the middle of the only road that circles the island. With stunning tropical overlooks, we find our way to the Nan Modal visitor center on Temwen island. We load the tools and gear onto the boat that will take us to the ruins. Since we’re dependent on the 4’ tides, we sometimes use the motor and sometimes use push sticks to work our way through narrow canals to our designated platforms. Nan Douwas, meaning  “in the chief’s mouth,” is a grand temple and burial site of the Saudeleurs. With multiple walls reaching heights of 25ft this is truly a magnificent site. We spent most of our time here instructing climbers and practicing safe chainsaw technique. I’ve discussed many hazards on job sites (i.e. slips, trips and falls), but I’ve never had to talk about the spirits. Many tales of mysterious accidents and death are attributed to the spirits. Locals say if you don’t announce yourself with good intention, the spirits will just push you off a wall, out of a tree or hit you in the head with a coconut. Accounts of pirates and looters dying onsite or very soon after have been documented. How to deal with this hazard you might ask? The locals use the word eung meaning “excuse me, I am here respectfully, I mean no harm.” It’s a word that announces your presence with good intention.

After a safety meeting and a few hours of work and training comes lunch time. The trainees invite Kevin and I to join. With several banana leaves to form a ground mat we all crouch around a container of rice surrounded by different foods others would bring to share. Similar to a potluck there would be slabs of yellow fin tuna caught the day before, crab ceviche, baked banana, taro, poi, different fish cooked and prepared differently every day. It made my canned tuna sandwich look pretty dull. With very few utensils or plates we mostly scooped seafood and rice with our fingers, laughed, and told stories. Back to work for a few hours felling and climbing trees, our day in the field had to end by 4pm.  The locals say that’s when the spirits come out and bad things happen. With no grounds to argue we would be packed up and take our boat commute down the channels between the ruins and mangrove listening to all the birds and hearing the crash of the sea break in the distance. Another hour drive to the Ocean View hotel in Colonia at 15-20 mph, Kevin and I would discuss the day and solidify our plans for the next. We could get a select amount of groceries from different stores and/or treat ourselves to four or five places to eat out. With a minimum wage of $2/hr most locals cooked and ate at home. I’d enjoy a beer or two in the evening overlooking a harbor that had several Japanese shipwrecks from WW2, coconut trees and fruit bats flying around. I’d get to sleep early, exhausted and excited for another day. What an adventure! 

During my 22 hours of flying home I found moments of reflection, thinking of where trees have taken me. It’s hard to even attempt to count the trees that have held me over the years. Hard to count the great people I’ve met and worked with, competed with, and laughed with. I’d guess hundreds of miles of rope have passed through my hands and hundreds of gallons of sweat paid.

How amazing that one summer job in ’97, working for Jeff Jepson and Beaver Tree Service in northern MN, would lead me to uncovering ancient ruins on the island of Pohnpei in the middle of the Pacific with Kevin Eckert. Twenty-six years of working trees, cleaning up after hurricanes, tornados, windstorms and ice storms, invasive pest eradication/quarantine sites, training contract special forces climbing tech, competing in dozens of climbing comps and teaching dozens of climbing classes. I’ve seen the best and the worst of people through good times and hard times. In these years, I’ve traveled and worked in many places. This trip seemed to have the special zing of you’re going where to do what??! 


In this moment of reflection, I’ve found it most important to be thankful. Thankful for the trees that hold us and the bonds forged by trust, faith and hard work. There are few things as magical and rewarding as a good crew and good equipment effectively working a difficult job. When the crew is aware and watchful of tools, equipment and each other it gives our years of training and safe working practice refinements, meaning, and purpose. This has been one of those jobs. It has been difficult to keep this descriptive and brief. My mind traveled in so many directions it was hard to stay focused. Wanting to share the adventure, give credit to all the hands at play and reminisce a little, I hope you found value in your time spent. 

My goal for the reader is for them to reflect and daydream about their time in the industry of arboriculture. Reflect on those days of accomplishment and satisfaction through hard and dangerous work. For the young and upcoming, nothing happens overnight, and a good attitude will get you further than most things in life. Dream big but work in the moment and stay humble. Look forward to places you’ll go, the people you’ll meet and the stories you’ll hear when you let trees take you.