Appendix 6: Analysis of solutions observed in the field. Use of one ascender and clipping into knots on a second rope
Warnings
- Carefully read the Instructions for Use used in this technical advice before consulting the advice itself. You must have already read and understood the information in the Instructions for Use to be able to understand this supplementary information.
- Mastering these techniques requires specific training. Work with a professional to confirm your ability to perform these techniques safely and independently before attempting them unsupervised.
- We provide examples of techniques related to your activity. There may be others that we do not describe here.
This solution is described here because it is often seen in use. It has poor ergonomics and a high risk of error.
Primary system: one ascender on the primary rope.
Secondary system: pre-tied knots spaced regularly on the second rope for clipping with a lanyard.
Advantages:
- Simplicity of the system and its installation
- Low equipment cost
Disadvantages:
- The second rope cannot be considered a belay system unless the climber is continuously connected to it A Y-lanyard must be used and the user must be clipped to the next knot before unclipping from the last knot.
- Average ease of use: the climber lifts the secondary rope with each move upwards, and supports its weight
- In case topping out is necessary to exit the route, retrieving a rope with many knots in it could be complicated or even dangerous
Risks in case of primary ascender malfunction:
- Significant potential fall length
- With an I-lanyard, the secondary belay system is not continuous
Close to the belay station, there is a risk of a fall factor 1: beware if the rope is semi-static.
With a static lanyard, the fall factor close to the belay station can be greater than 1. (A dynamic rope lanyard is preferred.)
