To answer our question, we sat down with ReBolting, a Swiss organization committed to maintaining aging climbing routes. We lent a hand with their rebolting efforts in the Engelhörner climbing area and at the Gemschiflueh "Chästeleit", and members of the organization gave us a glimpse into the complexity and the investment that route maintenance requires. We also spoke to Michel Piola and Daniel Anker about rebolting the historic Swiss multi-pitch that the pair established together in 1991, "Le Chant du Cygne" on the north face of the Eiger.
In this interview, ReBolting president, Raphael Schmid, shares more about the goals and challenges that the organization faces. Since its inception in 2017, ReBolting has been committed to sustainably rebolting climbs.
What’s behind ReBolting and how does the organization support climbers?
"Our organization brings the active Swiss climbing community together. We make sure that aging routes that are becoming unsafe are rebolted according to local ethics. ReBolting provides the necessary skills and equipment for free, so that routes can be revisited with clear and specific guidelines”, Schmid explains.
What is the best way to rebolt a route?
The intentions of the first ascensionists must absolutely be taken into account when rebolting routes. "It's important to talk to the climbers that opened the route. There are a few key questions to ask: What characteristics of the route should be preserved? Should the distance between bolts be adjusted? Or should traditional protection be used?" This open communication with the first ascensionists ensures that we maintain the original spirit of the route, even after rebolting.
ReBolting members evaluating "Le Chant du Cygne".
Respecting Local Climbing Ethics
Every climbing area has its own ethics and rules that must be taken into account when rebolting. In Switzerland, the organization now has eleven regional equipment depots that are managed by local climbers. "Open dialog is essential if we want to ensure that the routes meet the needs of the local climbing community", Schmid emphasizes.
Pesche Wüthrich during the rebolting of Rüttelhorn, a route in the Jura mountains.
Protecting Nature and Other Considerations
In addition to climbing ethics, we also need to take into account other aspects such as nature conservation and the potential increase in the number of visitors "We’ve developed a checklist to help guide route developers as they make a plan to rebolt," notes Schmid. This ensures that things like parking and environmental impact are not overlooked.
How can climbers support rebolting efforts?
"Rebolting is currently supported through membership dues, but it will soon be possible to make donations. "We would like climbers to make a small yearly contribution to route maintenance in order to help improve the safety of climbing areas in the long term," says Schmid.
To learn more and offer your support, go to www.rebolting.ch
ReBolting founder, Raphael Schmid, during route maintenance.
