Send your project with Jon Cardwell

Jon Cardwell is no stranger to sending difficult, world class boulders and sport routes. In fact, he’s one of the few who have completed V15 boulder problems and 5.15 routes. How does he do it? In this article, Jon shares his vast knowledge of breaking down a route piece by piece in order to get the redpoint.

Choosing the project

The first step in climbing your hardest route is picking the right one. If you want to push yourself, you need to choose something that’s at or just above your limit. It’s important to take risks and be ok with a level that may require multiple attempts. In the end, it's much more satisfying.

Selecting a route that has great aesthetics and movement is key. When you’re going to presumably spend a lot of time working one specific route, it’s important that you enjoy climbing on it every day. Good rock, nice angle, and location are all good factors to consider.

Consider choosing a route that has historical significance or chase after a first ascent. Personally, routes like Biographie in Ceuse will take priority over a brand new 9a+. However, when it comes to first ascents, adventuring into the unknown is always intriguing.
 

Preparing for the project

Preparing for the project involves a little bit of research. When are conditions good? How much time will you have to work the route? Look for videos online that can provide good beta. Talk with people who have sent or tried the route. If the project is local, drive out to it and look it over, giving you a good idea of what to prepare for. If you can’t find any information other than the guidebook and a couple photos, you’ll have to crack the beta the old fashion way.

Beyond gathering route information, evaluate where you’re at in your climbing and what you’ll need to work on. Think about what the route will require. Is it steep or vertical? Does it have a lot of crimps or slopers? Does it requires a lot of endurance or is it bouldery? Do your best to imagine how difficult the route will be and then train hard for it. Everyone has a different approach but arriving prepared, mentally and physically, gives you the best chance.
 

Attempting the route

On the first try, no matter what the grade is, just go for it. Climbing at your limit is dependent on where you’re at mentally, so there is no harm in giving the hardest route you’ve ever tried a flash attempt. If you approach it confidently, maybe all the training you did in preparation was enough and you simply underestimated your “limit.”

If the difficulty level is right, you’ll be hanging on the rope in no time. In that case, keep your mind open. Don’t think about how hard it feels. Work your way to the top while taking note on resting positions, cruxes, style, and sequences. Lastly, spend a little extra time rehearsing and memorizing complicated sequences to help you move quickly later on.
 

Working the beta

A lot of progress is made during the beginning stages of projecting a route. For this reason, it’s important to make serious efforts to send at the very beginning. There is something to learn with every fall, so take in every little detail when that happens. What can you change for the next attempt? Did you mess up the sequence? Were you pumped? Did your foot slip? This will help move things along without too much frustration. Being satisfied with longer links, completing the crux moves, or highpoints will definitely keep your mind in the right place.

Think logically before you let your emotions get the best of you. If you’re exhausted from too many attempts, consider taking some time to recover. Maybe your mind isn’t in the right space and you’re just frustrated, take some time off and go climb some fun routes. In the end, taking a step back and returning is often the key to success.
 

Send with confidence

Now it’s time to send. Ironically, this part of the process can take the longest and it might require that everything is in your favor: you’re in great shape, the weather is perfect, you have plenty of free time, your attitude is positive, you’re stoked, and you have a solid partner.

Projecting requires patience in order to ensure that you’re ready for the day when all of the above actually lines up, which is rare. Sometimes, you’re completely prepared and the project goes down after a few attempts or a couple of sessions, meaning that it wasn’t really at your limit.

Each time you return to the route, arrive prepared and in shape. Focus on everything other than sending, arrive to the crag, enjoy the company, the place, and being outside. Walk over to your project motivated to do your best and simply let your body do the rest.