Self-belay: solo climbing with one or two fixed ropes
Warnings
- Carefully read the Instructions for Use used in this technical advice before consulting the advice itself. You must have already read and understood the information in the Instructions for Use to be able to understand this supplementary information.
- Mastering these techniques requires specific training. Work with a professional to confirm your ability to perform these techniques safely and independently before attempting them unsupervised.
- We provide examples of techniques related to your activity. There may be others that we do not describe here.
Important:
In climbing or mountaineering, climbing with a partner or in a team offers the highest level of safety.
- Solo climbing is not recommended: climbing with a partner remains the best solution, which allows partners to check each other (partner check).
- This page presents equipment solutions for self-belayed progression. Many other skills are essential for this activity: e.g. installing ropes, upward and downward self-rescue.
- This page deals with climbing with a fixed belay rope, without loading the rope (except to rest). Ascending on the rope (caving, big wall, crevasse rescue, mountaineering) is not addressed here.
- If an accident results in unconsciousness (e.g. climber fall, impact from rockfall), rescue will be difficult. Do not climb solo without informing a person of your destination and expected return time.
- No solution is universal; you must be able to adapt our proposed technical solutions to your chosen terrain.
- A good understanding of the solutions proposed in this supplementary information requires that you have read, understood and assimilated the Instructions for Use for all devices involved.
In climbing or mountaineering, climbing with a partner or in a team offers the highest level of safety.
Nevertheless, fixed-rope solo climbing is an option that many climbers have taken, experimenting with a variety of technical solutions.
Petzl has not developed a device for this activity, but certain ascenders may be used for it by experts.
The following characteristics are essential for any self-belay system:
- Effective and immediate blocking in all situations.
- Easy sliding along the rope while climbing.
- Redundancy of the belay.
- Comfort and ease of use.
- A continuous belay during climbing and all operations.
Among the technical decisions to be made by the climber in each situation, one is essential: the appropriate level of redundancy. This level of redundancy will impact both the complexity and the reliability of the belay system.
Introduction to the principle of redundancy of the belay
Considering the possible failure of a single belay system (e.g. in the event of an accident, or error during installation or use), Petzl recommends the use of two systems.
The second system is redundant, it is installed as a backup to help ensure continuous protection, even in the event one of the systems fails.
For maximum effectiveness, the two systems must be completely independent, so that a potential cause of failure in one system cannot simultaneously affect the other system. Any interference between the two systems must be avoided.
It is a good idea to use two different systems, to reduce the risk of repeating the same mistake twice (for example, twice forgetting to activate a MICRO TRAXION’s cam: better to use a NANO TRAXION and a MICRO TRAXION than two MICRO TRAXIONs).
Petzl does not recommend using a single ascender for self-belaying
Using a single ascender is technically feasible; however, accidents have been reported despite user expertise.
The risks are real in the field, so Petzl recommends using a redundant belay system.
This is because:
- You are climbing alone, at height.
- Error is always possible.
- Ascenders are not designed for self-belayed climbing.
- It is important to always carry a descender (GRIGRI) and a foot loop/ascender combo (TIBLOC + ANNEAU) for progression on the rope in case of failure to complete the climb.
- Roofs and traverses complicate the system: they require numerous directional points and additional precautions. Carry out another risk analysis for these particular cases.
- Proper rope installation is crucial for climber safety and comfort. It must be carried out with care, especially by minimizing rope friction against the rock (using intermediate anchors or deviations), by selecting reliable anchors in line with the route, by making sure the rope length is correct, and by limiting exposure to risk while accessing the climb.
Setting up a self-belay system on two ropes with two ascenders:
Each ascender is installed on a different rope.
Advantages:
- Better protection in case of potential rope damage
- Comfortable: just a sit harness may be worn (no shoulder straps)
- The system slides easily on the ropes
- Makes it easy to switch from ascent to descent mode, by slackening one of the two ropes to install the GRIGRI before disconnecting the two progress-capture pulleys
Disadvantages:
- Requires twice as much rope
- No carabiner redundancy: great care must be taken when installing, closing and locking them. Having just one carabiner, right in front of you, makes it easier to monitor as you climb. Only the ATTACHE BAR is recommended for this use, as its bar reduces the risk of incorrect closure and locking
- May only be used with NANO TRAXION or MICRO TRAXION, as these compact pulleys have smooth side plates and will not interfere with each other
- For the sake of redundancy, each progress-capture pulley can be attached to an independent carabiner (taking care to install the locking sleeves opposite each other). However, this can increase interference between the two devices, and make visual monitoring more difficult.
Installation on one single rope with two ascenders
Redundancy is achieved only with respect to the ascenders, and rope installation must be perfect (especially: no rope friction, anchor quality, no exposure to rockfall).
Advantages:
- Reduces weight for long approaches (only one length of rope)
- The system slides easily on the rope, without rope drag
Disadvantages:
- Requires the use of shoulder straps to properly tow the upper ascender
- The redundancy principle is not followed with respect to the belay rope. WARNING: repeated rubbing against the rock can quickly cut your only rope (see video)
- The quickdraw helps avoid collisions between the devices, but should not reduce comfort: select a length that prevents the straps from pulling on the neck during a rest or fall.
Example of premature wear on a fixed rope:
Examples of devices not authorized for self-belaying
To date, no Petzl device has been specifically designed for self-belayed climbing. The devices below are not authorized for self-belaying (non-exhaustive list).
SHUNT
Not authorized for self-belaying.
Increased risk on overhanging or sloping terrain where the climber’s body can press against the device and prevent blocking. The device will not block if the user grabs it during a fall. Risk of inversion, leading to the possibility of releasing the rope.
RESCUCENDER
Not authorized for self-belaying.
Increased risk on overhanging or sloping terrain where the climber’s body can press against the device and prevent blocking. The device will not block if the user grabs it during a fall.
GRIGRI
Not authorized for self-belaying.
The device will not slide along the rope without manual operation by the user. The user must keep their hand on the rope at all times, which means they cannot climb.
NEOX
Not authorized for self-belaying.
The user must keep their hand on the rope at all times, which means they cannot climb.
Supplement: introduction to risk assessment
The risks vary according to the situation: carry out your own assessment!
Examples of installation-related risks:
- Access from above presents a risk of falling before the rope is installed, be vigilant when approaching the anchor.
- Beware of rockfall while accessing the route from above, and when the rope is moving.
- Anchor or rope failure: adapt your installation to the site, choose a solid anchor on two equalized points, avoiding rub points against edges or protruding rock. A rope protector may be required.
- Passing the belay anchor and factor 2 fall. Always stay below the belay anchor: make sure your setup allows for this during access and egress.
- Risk of groundfall: in the first few meters of the climb, even with a properly installed system, you can hit the ground in the event of a fall, due to rope stretch. The elongation of a rope under load is around 10%. If your route is 50 m, there is a risk of groundfall on the first 5 meters of the climb, even from simply resting on the rope.
Examples of handling-related risks:
- Device failure: improper attachment, disabling of the cam, or a side plate opening during use (rubbing, interference from foreign objects).
- Dropping a device when changing the system from ascent to descent.
- Rope loss: do not detach yourself completely from the rope while performing maneuvers, a slight overhang can pendulum the rope out of reach.
- Slack rope: if the rope is not sufficiently weighted from below, the system cannot slide fast enough to keep pace with your climbing, creating slack between you and the anchor. This increases the fall distance.
