Second climber stuck: hauling on a loaded rope
When the second falls on an overhang, if they cannot ascend under their own power, the leader must find a way to haul them up. When there is enough rope available, it is easiest to send the belayer end of the rope to the second to help them, making the rope end they are hanging on act as a back-up belay. If this maneuver is not possible, it is necessary to install a hauling system on the climber end of the rope, which is under tension. The weight must be transferred from the REVERSO 4 to a progress capture pulley at the head of the hauling system. With only one second and using a half rope, this transfer is simple with the rope release function of the REVERSO 4.
Warnings
- Carefully read the Instructions for Use used in this technical advice before consulting the advice itself. You must have already read and understood the information in the Instructions for Use to be able to understand this supplementary information.
- Mastering these techniques requires specific training. Work with a professional to confirm your ability to perform these techniques safely and independently before attempting them unsupervised.
- We provide examples of techniques related to your activity. There may be others that we do not describe here.
1. Make a mule knot on one of the ropes, on the braking side of the REVERSO 4. This knot allows the rope to be released, freeing the hands for the maneuver.
2. Install the MICRO TRAXION progress capture pulley on the other rope, on the load side. Check that the direction of the installation is appropriate for hauling (the MICRO TRAXION glides downward, blocks upward). Connect the MICRO TRAXION to a sling connected to the master point of the anchor.
3. Use the carabiner as a handle in the carabiner hole of the REVERSO 4 to release the rope. The load is now transferred to the MICRO TRAXION.
4. The MICRO TRAXION may be used as a progress capture pulley in simple or complex haul systems.
The choice of hauling system depends on the situation: the weight of the second, rope drag over rock, etc.
During hauling, continually take up the slack in the second rope end to maintain the back-up belay.
