Tech tips Tech tips by activity Multi-Pitch Climbing Setting up a self-belay system on two ropes with two ascenders

Setting up a self-belay system on two ropes with two ascenders

Warnings

Carefully read the Instructions for Use used in this technical advice before consulting the advice itself. You must have already read and understood the information in the Instructions for Use to be able to understand this supplementary information.
Mastering these techniques requires specific training. Work with a professional to confirm your ability to perform these techniques safely and independently before attempting them unsupervised.
We provide examples of techniques related to your activity. There may be others that we do not describe here.

Primary system: one ascender on the belay rope. Secondary system: one ascender on the backup rope.

Primary system: one ascender on the belay rope.

Secondary system: one ascender on the backup rope.

Advantages:

- Redundancy principle also followed for the belay rope

- Comfortable, allows wearing only a seat harness without shoulder straps

- Facilitates changing between ascent and descent modes

- The system slides along the rope, without pulling

Disadvantages:

- Rope installation is more complex

Risks in case of primary ascender malfunction:

- Fall height twice the length of the secondary ascender's attachment lanyard

Installation on the harness with two ascenders:

The primary ascender is connected to the harness belay loop with an OK carabiner.

A RESCUCENDER is placed on the other rope as a backup. It is connected to the harness tie-in points with a quick link (PRESTO or GO), a 17 cm EXPRESS sling and an OK TRIACT-LOCK carabiner. After installation, verify that each ascender slides correctly on the rope in the up direction, and locks instantly in the down direction.

Before climbing, verify that all connectors are locked.