What would be the results of tests done with 80 kg on one strand of a half rope? - Petzl Portugal
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What would be the results of tests done with 80 kg on one strand of a half rope?

Warnings

  • Carefully read the Instructions for Use used in this technical advice before consulting the advice itself. You must have already read and understood the information in the Instructions for Use to be able to understand this supplementary information.
  • Mastering these techniques requires specific training. Work with a professional to confirm your ability to perform these techniques safely and independently before attempting them unsupervised.
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The impact force for factor 1.77 standard falls:

TANGO 8.5 mm on 1 strand with 80 kg

F = 9.2 kN

max. number of falls before break: 3

SALSA 8.2 mm on 1 strand with 80 kg

F = 9 kN

max. number of falls before break: 2

PASO 7.7 mm on 1 strand with 80 kg

F = 8.5 kN

max. number of falls before break: 2

This means that with half ropes, it is possible to separate the 2 strands and clip only one strand several times to limit drag on a route, and be able to fall in this situation.

Attention: this does not mean that the belayer can easily stop a big fall on a single strand. It is also essential to beware of sharp edges.