PETZL LEGEND TOUR SICILY
April 3 2025
Indoor and Outdoor Climbing
So-called "invisible mountains" that boast southern rock and timeless walls overlooking the town of Palermo — these are the main characters in the Petzl Legend Tour Sicily. The dawn of climbing, breathtaking sunsets, and the infinite horizons of an island waiting to be explored. The Petzl Legend Tour arrives in Sicily, not only to retrace the roots of sport climbing but to immerse itself in the history, traditions, and music of this unique land.
Sicilian climbing was born in Palermo thanks to the work of Roby Manfrè who put up more than 300 routes across the island and is considered the "father" of generations of Sicilian climbers. While Palermo is the birthplace of Sicilian climbing, San Vito Lo Capo is the mecca. Known to climbers all over the world, it offers what many consider the triple threat of climbing destinations: sun, sea, and good rock. We're making a stop in Sicily to explore the crags surrounding Palermo, where new climbing pursuits are deeply rooted in history. We're also here to explore the "invisible" walls of the Syracuse region, a place completely immersed in nature, where climbing is woven into the culture, music, and traditions.
Cavadonna, Cugno Lupo and Cava Giorgia — Exploring the Hyblaean Mountains, Canicattini Bagni, the City of Jazz, and the Unforgettable Island of Ortigia
Towering over south-eastern Sicily, the Hyblaean Mountains are home to a history and landscape of immeasurable value. Known as the "inverted mountains", they’re characterized by the many quarries found within the range. These mountains can't be seen by looking up at the sky — witnessing their beauty requires descending into canyons that are carved into the plateau. Suddenly, you're immersed in an infinitely green landscape, rich in history and dotted with native vegetation bordering isolated farms. Here, you can only climb up by first climbing down into the heart of the earth, where you'll find sun-colored rock punctuated by perfect tufas or gray slabs chiseled with pockets and smooth water-sculpted grooves.
While flying an ultralight plane over Cavadonna — home to one of the largest canyons in the Canicattini Bagni region — lifelong climber Massimo Cappuccio spotted what would become eastern Sicily's most popular climbing spot. Today it’s a treasure waiting to be rediscovered, but back then, it was a hidden gem that would be brought to life by a group of dedicated climbers including Massimo, Giorgio Iurato, Peppe Gallo, Massimo Flaccavento, and Christian Leube, an Austrian who has made Sicily his home. With his expert eye, Christian immediately recognized the potential of the canyon’s largest overhanging sector. Here, the beauty of the climbing is elevated by the peaceful landscape; it's an experience that feels deeply connected to nature.
Christian, who honed his sport climbing skills in the US, also explored other areas of Canicattini Bagni. It was during these explorations that he discovered the untapped potential of another canyon, Cugno Lupo, offering even more possibilities for new climbing. Another driving force behind the area's development has come from the motivation and talent of Dario Di Gabriele, alongside Christian and the group of strong climbers they run with, affectionately known as Bobo's Extreme Team. With Dario as our guide, we'll explore new routes and the beauty of Cava Giorgia. We’ll also be joined by Giulia Bernardini, a driven young Sicilian climber. Now 18 and part of the Italian climbing team, she’s already seeing the rewards of her hard work — but she’s just getting started.
Climbing in Canicattini Bagni means being surrounded by rich culture and tradition. We experienced it first-hand in the TEMPO Museum (Museum of the Senses, Fabrics, Migrants and Popular Medicine); and we heard it in the notes of a jam session dedicated to us by the Amato Jazz Trio, the first great Italian jazz family from Canicattini Bagni.
Palermo and Monte Pellegrino: Between Past, Present and Future
"Palermo is the city where Sicilian climbing took its first steps, timid at the beginning, then more and more determined to open up to an unknown but promising world," writes Giuseppe Maurici, one of Roby Manfrè's longtime climbing partners. Roby Manfrè was an undisputed force in climbing. Old and new generations of climbers followed in his footsteps. They continued to write the history of climbing in Sicily, developing areas like Capo Gallo reserve and Monte Pellegrino. Climbers arrived here from the continent and were enchanted by the siren song of breathtaking walls overlooking the sea. Written in the first southern guidebook, "Mezzogiorno di Pietra," and later in the book, "La pietra dei dream, "Alessandro Gogna's stories were the perfect backdrop for our time in Palermo. Our trip concludes with a full-circle moment between two Petzl athletes on the Italian team. Years ago, Rolando Larcher, Luca Giupponi, Maurizio Oviglia, and Nicola Sartori established Pompa Funebre (150m, 8b max, 7a+ obligatory) on the Parete dei Rotoli wall of Monte Pellegrino. Now, Rolando’s son, Alessandro, has repeated the route with Federica Mingolla, who, in a previous episode of the Petzl Legend Tour, climbed some of Rolando’s most famous routes in Pietra del Sud.
Rock, Sun and Sunsets On the Sea - Climbing to Be Happy
"One day, after climbing at Capo Zafferano with Roby, Chiara, and Isabella, we cooled off with a swim in the sea, then watched the sunset, our legs dangling freely over the edge of the wall. That's why we climbed — it made us happy." This memory written by Luigi Cutietta (another key figure in Sicilian climbing), sums up the unique character of climbing on this island, a feeling that words and images simply cannot convey.
The beauty of these places is undeniable. Here, the spirit of Roby Manfrè lives on as new generations of climbers continue the passionate pursuit he began, bringing out the true and authentic soul of Sicily.