Chamonix celebrates the 150th anniversary of the golden age of mountaineering

The Chamonix Mont-Blanc valley will celebrate one-hundred and fifty years of mountaineering, focusing on the exceptional year that was 1865. For the occasion, Petzl and the Petzl foundation will rope up with Chamonix by offering you the opportunity to attend several events between June and October 2015: conferences, exhibitions, concerts… Even though Petzl's history is much more recent, the company, through both products and athletes, is often at the forefront of the latest techniques… which have all evolved from those of the past!

"The person who truly loves the mountains not only discovers adventure and passion during the most challenging of outings, but also the new joyous feeling of being in contact with the sparkling wonders of a formerly unknown world." Thomas Hinchliff

Back to the beginning...

As early as 1741, the first tourists traveling to Chamonix with William Winddham ascend to Montenvers and are captivated by the "Mer de Glace" or "sea of ice."

In 1760, naturalist and geologist Horace Bénédicte de Saussure sets foot for the first time in the valley and promises a reward to anyone who finds a way to the top of Mont Blanc.

Twenty-six years later, at the end of the afternoon on one August 8th, two young men from Chamonix, crystal collector Jacques Balmat and Doctor Paccard, stand at an elevation of 4810 meters. This groundbreaking achievement is followed by several other ascents of Mont Blanc.

The first female ascent, by Marie Paradis, took place on July 14, 1808.

Mountaineering serving science

At the turn of the 19th century, with the rebirth of materialism, scientific discovery becomes the priority of the day. Conquering summits and exploring the Alps is often combined with scientific measurements and experiments. The mountains transform into an outdoor research laboratory.

Expeditions like that of Dr. Hamel on Mont Blanc in 1820 are a sign of the times. Thirteen guides and porters accompany a Russian, three Englishmen, and Dr. Hamel, who would like to measure the exact altitude of the summit. This ascent is significant for other reasons as well, since it finishes tragically with the first ever "mountaineering" accident: three guides die in an avalanche. The tragedy hits Chamonix hard, an entire town mourns the accident. The tragic episode leads to the creation of, in 1821, what will become the now famous Chamonix Guide Company or "Compagnie des Guides de Chamonix": guides come together to establish an emergency fund, to structure and organize the profession.

During the four decades that follow, the interest in high-altitude adventures and ascents continues to grow. Scientists, writers, painters, and the royalty of the era travel to the valley or even higher. The expansion of the railroads in the middle of the 19th century contributes to this movement. The obsession with the mountains spreads throughout Europe, and is particularly fervent in the United Kingdom. Albert Smith, after successfully scaling Mont Blanc, stages a show in "Egyptian Hall" to portray the ascent; the show would play more than two-thousand times between 1852 and 1859! In the mountains, across the Alps, the English "lead the way" to the birth of mountaineering as a sport.

1865, the golden age of mountaineering: success, commitment, and tragedy…...

In 1854, Englishman Alfred Willis, accompanied by two Chamonix guides, makes the first ascent of the Wetterhorn in the Bernese Alps just for fun. This marks the beginning of what is now referred to as the golden age of mountaineering: eleven years of firsts and of historic ascents through 1865.

These years witness dozens of first ascents, from the Mont-Blanc Range to the Bernese Oberland, from the Tyrol to the Dolomites, from the Oisans to the Valais, including more than thirty first ascents on 4000 meter peaks. Mont Rose, Mont Blanc du Tacul, the Aiguille du Midi, the Eiger, the Grande Casse, Mönch, Dent Blanche, Grand Paradis; the list goes on and on. The major players of this epic era are primarily British. Their names include Charles Hudson, John Tyndall, William Matthews, Leslie Stephen, Adolphus Moore, and Horace Walker to name a few. Most are members of the Alpine Club in London, created in 1857. This is the very first mountain club. Guides play a vital role not only in Chamonix, but also in the Bernese Oberland and Zermatt. Together, the English and their guides form legendary rope teams, developing a clear passion for exploration, a mutual respect for each others' skills, and often close friendships.

Leslie Stephen, one of the era's best English mountaineers, describes the Alps as "Europe's playground." The game played is mountaineering, a style of mountaineering involving self-sufficient experienced rope teams where commitment is key. The hunger to establish new routes, the desire to seek out difficulty and beautiful unclimbed lines, and the athletic component all characterize the protagonists. Today this is referred to as alpine style, the preferred style for most mountaineers.

The year 1865 also symbolizes the pinnacle of mountaineering success and commitment. No less than fifty-five world-class first ascents were made in the Alps during this one year alone.

Left: Edward Whymper. Center: a sketch of the Matterhorn's first ascent. Right: Michel Croz..

On July 14, 1865, Englishman Edward Whymper and Chamonix guide, Michel Croz, form one of the most exceptionally gifted rope teams of the era. They scale the Matterhorn on the peak's incredible first ascent that includes Charles Hudson, Francis Douglas, Douglas R. Hadow, and Zermatt guides Taugwalder father and son.
Tragedy, however, strikes on the descent: a fall, a severed rope, and Croz, Hudson, Douglas, and Hadow disappear into the void. Whymper is forever affected by this accident and will never again attempt another first ascent. The brash and heroic style of mountaineering experiences one of its first major tragedies.

Over this ten-year period, in spite of this tragedy, a brash and heroic approach to mountaineering, a style of mountaineering always pushing the edge of the envelope, is born. One-hundred and fifty years later, the heritage of the golden age is still alive and well today among countless rope teams all throughout the Alps. From Chamonix to Zermatt, Grindelwald to Valtournenche…

To learn more about this time period and the schedule of events:

• L'âge d’or de l'alpinisme ("The Goldend Age of Mountaineering"). Gilles MODICA. Chamonix: Editions Guérin, 2015, 350 pages.
• Vertical Special Edition N°1, January 30, 2015, 1865: the golden age of mountaineering.
• Download the full program for the 150th anniversary of the golden age of mountaineering

Petzl and the Petzl Foundation are partnering with Chamonix for the event, "1865-2015: Chamonix celebrates the 150th anniversary of the golden age of mountaineering."

We are providing support to the following exhibits, "The Grands Mulets, the first mountain hut" at Espace Tairraz, and "Glaciers through the eyes of pioneering photographers" at the Maison du Patrimoine (Heritage Museum).

Join us:

• On June 11, for a special evening during the Alpine Arc'ademy, with Ueli Steck.
• On August 11, for an evening at the Majestic to discuss the legacy of 1865 and alpine style, with several guests and films.