FINDING BALANCE: CHRIS SHARMA'S INSPIRING OUTLOOK ON LIFE

Chris Sharma is one of the most legendary names in sport climbing. Throughout his career, he’s pushed the limits of the sport, raised the bar when it comes to hard climbing, and inspired thousands of climbers all over the world. As Petzl athlete, Chris is known not only for his impressive sport climbing and bouldering achievements, but also for his work as a first ascensionist, establishing some of the world's most difficult and sought after routes. His innovative and varied approach, as well as his commitment to excellence, have played a part in making him a legendary figure in the climbing world. Athlete, father, and business owner, Chris sat down with us to share his philosophy on climbing today and the foundational values on which he’s built his life. Enjoy this thoughtful conversation with Chris Sharma.

A Life Punctuated By Climbing

In 1993, a young Chris slipped on his first pair of climbing shoes. Thus began what would become a lifelong passion for the sport. Thirty years later, he’s still pushing the limits. His approach to climbing, his performance, and his motivation have all evolved over the years, coinciding with different seasons of life and sometimes opening doors to other opportunities. "Many of the peak achievements in my climbing career have defined periods in my life. It's never been possible for me to always push in one direction", explains Sharma.

"Climbing has been an activity that has accompanied me through different phases of my life, from being a kid, to a teenager, to an adult, and now as a father and entrepreneur. Climbing is the thread that connects all these steps in my life."​

As is often the case in life, some of the highest moments in his climbing career were often followed by challenging moments. Staying true to his motivation, Chris notes that for him, "it's important to take those down moments in climbing performance to do other things, develop in other ways, or have new experiences." While he's an athlete through and through, Chris also knows how to give himself the space to be something else. "I've always tried to approach climbing in a spontaneous way, being inspired in the moment. It doesn’t always happen, and in those moments, it's good to do other things. When the motivation returns, it's like rediscovering climbing and falling in love with it again in a new way."

Expanding Horizons

In the slower seasons of his climbing career, Chris has turned his attention to other endeavors. "I needed time to explore business and develop a brand. Sharma Climbing was a new adventure and it was a challenge to create something sustainable beyond being a professional athlete." Climbing is unlike other mainstream sports where professional athletes have the luxury of counting on a comfortable retirement. Chris understood the importance of using his brand to build a stable, long-term career. "It also makes me appreciate the simplicity of just being a climber."

At 42 years old, diversifying and developing other skills has become another source of motivation for Chris. "In the past few years, I've built two big climbing gyms and worked as an executive producer for an HBO show about climbing. I learned a lot in the process. Through all these different experiences, I realized how much I love climbing and that it’s what I’m most talented at." 

Finding Balance

Climbing at a high level, raising a family, and running a business — it requires a good deal of balance. For Chris, it comes naturally. "Committing fully to the process of a project is key, without worrying about when it will be achieved." That means appreciating every phase that goes into achieving a goal, whatever it may be. And with tighter time constraints, it's also important to shift priorities.

In Barcelona, he and his family live just a stone's throw away from Mallorca, a place that holds special meaning for Chris. Living in Spain allows him to continue to climb at a high level and push his limits, while at the same time devoting himself to his role as a father of two young children. "Balancing sport climbing and family life creates a good synergy." What more could you ask for? Chris adds, "it's important to keep a simple, stable lifestyle. My priorities are my family, climbing, friendships, and relationships. Everything else is extra."

Relaxed and calm, Chris seems to have found his balance; he knows what he wants out of life and how to achieve it. Perhaps it's a superpower that one only gains with time and experience. "My objectives have become more personal rather than external. It’s not about being the best climber in the world, but personal satisfaction."

The return to High-Level Climbing: Sleeping Lion (9b)

Despite juggling his many professional endeavors, the “king of king lines” decided to once again make climbing a clear priority in his life. That's when he dove head first into developing and climbing Sleeping Lion (9b). The next-level project was close to home, allowing Chris to maintain a healthy routine. "Consistency is crucial. Jumping on the project every week increases the likelihood of success. I spent seven years not climbing at a high level, which was frustrating, but I realized that consistency in daily habits is essential." When he started working on Sleeping Lion, he knew that it would be necessary to set other projects aside to concentrate on this one. "The timing was right. Being conscious of true priorities made things clear."

Chris continues, "Committing to the process, even when there is doubt, even if it doesn’t happen, means knowing you did everything you could. Realizing your maximum potential means fully committing to one thing, not spreading yourself too thin. Embracing the process and not worrying about the finish line helps appreciate small wins along the way."

Consistency, commitment to the process, and well-defined priorities — words of wisdom that can resonate with climbers at every level.

The Shared Journey of Climbing

While he is well-known and recognized among the international climbing community, Chris remains grounded. "Having other top climbers validate my climbs by attempting them is cool. It’s like a musician needing their song to be recorded and heard. Climbing is personal but also a community experience, contributing to each other’s journeys. The influence of other climbers before me has been important in my journey, and it’s cool to be part of others’ journeys. This exchange of inspiration and ideas across generations is the life force of evolution. In climbing culture, this transmission of knowledge and experience is rich and important. It’s a stepping stone process where we contribute to each other’s growth, making it a community."

Who knows what else the future holds for Chris. The possibilities are endless.